Jo,
And if you are in Doukades, do not miss lunch at Elizabeths. Dolmades are very good as is the house special of a sort of omelette with cheese and hand cut chips which is big enough to feed 2. There isn't a bus service, but hire car needed. Lovely little village complete with a square with a couple of cafes/restaurants. The route is go past Trompeta pass, and halfway towards Skipero turn off right.
Chris